Hydrobike Service and Maintenance Tips

life long buddies - drive train oil & chain oil	well kept drive train
	non lubricated drive train

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Salt Water Environment Maintenance

Chain

Many resorts utilize two chains for each Hydrobike, keeping a spare chain soaking in diesel fuel while operating with the other chain. At the end of one week the chain on the bike is exchanged with the fuel soaked chain and so on week after week. This is very effective since even the best "rust resistant" chain will break down with constant exposure to salt water. The 2-chain rotation method has proven to extend chain life by years.

Seat Post

The seat post should be removed from the frame at least once a month and sprayed with good rust inhibiting oil.

Handlebar Stem (Goose Neck):

Prior to first use (during initial assembly) pack the bottom of the handlebar stem assembly with marine grease where the assembly bolt threads into the diagonally shaped iron nut that is designed to secure the rudder stem with the handlebars. This should be re-packed with grease each season or every 6 months.

Replacement of Lower Seals - Prop Shaft

Block up drive train in a horizontal position. (propeller up)

Remove screw and pull propeller from shaft.

Use a flat headed screwdriver to hook the inside wall of the seal and pry up, using the edge of the housing away from the tip of the screwdriver for leverage. Do not damage the inside housing surface.

Slide the seal up and over the prop shaft.

The inside seal can be removed by sliding the tip of a small screwdriver down alongside the shaft and "hooking" the center of the seal. Loosen the seal by prying up and remove in a similar manner to the first seal.

Clean the inside wall of the housing and leave it dry.

Replace the inside seal sliding it over the prop shaft, open side down, making sure that the small spring stays in place. Press down on the seal in several areas and make sure it is fully seated.

The outer seal is placed over the prop shaft with "washer" side to the outside. Press down until fully seated.

Slide propeller into the shaft and replace screw.

Setting the Revla seat height

Two basic rules regarding height:

• The higher the handlebars are than the sitting surface of the seat, the more you need to increase the minus Vector.
• The closer the height of the handlebars are to the height of the seat, the more you need to increase the plus Vector.

What you are doing is in effect simply rolling the upright position of your body around the bullnose until you find the most comfortable crease line position. This also solves the following possible problems:

• Too much weight falling onto hands, arms and shoulders - adjust to V-i or lower.
• Too much pressure in the creaseline - adjust to V.0 or V 1 or higher.

There is a critical relationship between the ideal Vector angle and the height of the seat and handlebars from the pedals. (This is also largely true of conventional bicycle saddles.)

Setting the correct seat height for the length of your legs

Position yourself on the Revla seat so that the natural thigh-buttock crease line (where the back of your thighs meets the start of your buttock 'cheeks') sits comfortably on the bullnose leading edge of the Revla seat. With either one of the pedals at its lowest (6 o' clock) position, let your legs dangle naturally and adjust the length of the seat post until your heel dangles just clear of the lowest pedal. You should then find the height of the seat just about right.

Set the handlebars as high as you can

For the Revla seat, your handlebar grips should be at least 6 inches (15cm) higher than the sitting surface of the Revla seat - the higher they are the better. This is not new to cycling. It's the way people used to ride before the designers lost it, causing all kinds of medical problems as a consequence. Today's "Comfort" bikes are leading a return to comfortable leisure and commuter cycling. And the Revla seat is the comfort bike's perfect complementary partner.